How To Tell If 2 Stroke Oil Pump Is Working

20 September 2013, 10:xiii	#i
Fellow member Country: Uk - England Town: Plymouth Make: Humber Length: 4m + Engine: 2007 Merc 75hp 2S Bring together Appointment: Sep 2013 Posts: 89	How do I know oil is mixing I take a 75hp 2007 2 stroke Mercury Outboard. Instead of mixing the fuel and oil it has an oil tank and so information technology mixes the fuel and oil during the injection process. Apart from noticing the level subtract in the tank is there whatsoever other fashion I can know the oil an fuel is mixing properly? Have heard of oil pumps failing and engines seizing, too heard of people doing away with the oil tank and mixing the fuel themselves to rule out the problem of the oil pump declining. I'd prefer to leave the outboard standard and use it how it is, whatsoever advice on how to bank check its mixing properly would be keen. Thank you. __________________ __________________

twenty September 2013, 12:15	#2
Member Country: UK - England Town: South Yorks Boat name: Blackness Squealer Make: Ribcraft Length: 5m + Engine: DF140a MMSI: 235111389 Join Date: Feb 2008 Posts: 11,370	I'thousand not familiar with your engine, is information technology "quondam tech" or "new tech" i.e. carbed or DI. If it's DI (Straight Injection) information technology may accept some kind of electrickery that monitors the oil pulses & alarms if the oil catamenia is low or missing. Apart from that I dunno, sorry. __________________ __________________ Rule#2: Never argue with an idiot. He'll drag you downwards to his level & then beat you with feel. Rule#3: Tha' can't educate pork. Rule#iv:https://www.youtube.com/watch?5=unkIVvjZc9Y

20 September 2013, 12:44	#three
Member Land: United kingdom of great britain and northern ireland - England Boondocks: Bristol Make: Ribcraft Length: 5m + Engine: Yamaha Join Engagement: May 2006 Posts: iv,296	Beginning thing i assume its a carbed version. Monitor the oil level drop.and mark the oil tank earlier and later the run Secondly take the plugs out after a good run at more half throttle and check the colour of the plugs. Should be a light brown ideally. If at that place is any poss problems...you can also every bit a service requirement, bleed the mechanical oil pump. In that location is a small bleed spiral on the outer side of pump and permit the oil run out for 15 secs or so.the the oil should freely run and this ensures the oil filter in tank is not blocked and/or express flow. Tcw3 is the correct grade for that unit. I alway apply manufacturers oil that is recommended as non worth it for the sake of a few squids. __________________

twenty September 2013, 14:39	#iv
Member Country: U.k. - England Town: Littlehampton, W Sx Length: no boat MMSI: 235101591 Join Engagement: Jan 2012 Posts: 732	The other way is to disconnect the oil pump, run the engine on mixed petrol/oil and measure how much oil is pumped out during a given period. In that location is commonly a "book of oil per infinitesimal" in the spec - if you tin find it. __________________ "Tin ye model it? For if ye tin, ye empathise it, and if ye canna, ye dinna!" - Lord kelvin

20 September 2013, 17:xi	#5
RIBnet admin team Land: UK - England Town: The wilds of Wiltshire Boat proper name: Dominator Make: SR5.4 Length: 7m + Engine: Yam 85 MMSI: 235055163 Join Date: Jul 2005 Posts: thirteen,023	2007 and 75hp would make it an Opti wouldn't information technology? __________________ Need spares,consoles,consumables,rent,training or even a new boat? Delight click Hither and HERE and support our Merchandise Members. Join up as a Trade member or Supporter HERE

xx September 2013, 17:59	#half-dozen
Member State: Great britain - England Town: Bristol Make: Ribcraft Length: 5m + Engine: Yamaha Join Date: May 2006 Posts: iv,296	Im tinkin by the clarification its one of the last two smokes. Ya cannot disconnect the oil tank on a opti . Ha ha just lets wait to see what it is!! __________________

20 September 2013, 20:19	#7
Member Country: Great britain - England Town: Leicester Length: 5m + Engine: 135hp Mercury Join Engagement: Sep 2013 Posts: 1,331	E'er a bit of a worry. Checking the level on a daily basis is a good start. I had a separate hose from the oil pump on mine recently & the simply manner I found that out was by a daily visual inspection - oil inside the engine encompass where there shouldn't be oil. The pump & level warnings didn't pick it up & in that location's no reason why they would take until the tank had emptied. Without my daily check I expect I'd be in the market for a new engine - & I remember I've been lucky every bit it is. Mine's the older (1989) 135 Black Max with injection - really its just a metering device that adds oil to the fuel prior to the carbs - & there is a lot on the web for engines of that menses which bargain with disabling the oil injection machinery & just running on a 50:1 pre-mix. Oil injection has always struck me as an answer to a question that no-i has asked. __________________

21 September 2013, 06:26	#8
Fellow member Country: UK - England Town: Plymouth Brand: Humber Length: 4m + Engine: 2007 Merc 75hp 2S Join Date: Sep 2013 Posts: 89	Thankyou for the replies. I'll be home side by side week so ill'll run across if it's an opti or non. I'd rather run information technology as is, than worry trying to modify it. __________________

21 September 2013, 15:03	#9
Member Country: Uk - Scotland Town: Glasgow Boat proper name: snagglepuss Make: Shetland Length: 6m + Engine: 90 hp Outboard Join Appointment: Nov 2011 Posts: 562	Hi Pre mixing is far safer. The commercial line-fishing guys honey to tell stories about the poor sod who's automobile mixer failed and killed the engine and to be fair information technology is a single point of failure that yous can go rid off v easily. __________________

27 September 2013, 20:12	#x
Member Country: United kingdom of great britain and northern ireland - Scotland Boondocks: Argyll Make: Tornado Length: 5m + Join Date: Sep 2011 Posts: 92	I recently re-instated the autolube oil pump on my former carbed (i.e. not opti/DFI) 100hp mariner afterward the previous owner disabled it for precisely the reason clydeoutboards gives. Admittedly I am more nervous/conscious about it now, but hey. It is used as a back up gunkhole that spends long stretches at idle or stooging around at low revs, so benefits from autolube as it will have less fouling of the plugs, less sooty deposits, less smoke and of course lower oil consumption. Re-instating involved re-plumbing the oil tank ( I replaced the oil pump outlet hose with some clear hose so I can see oil/chimera flow and check for priming),and so synchronising the oil pump to the carbs (adjusting the pushrod lengths to align marks on the pump), then bleeding the pump (loosen spiral on top of pump 'til oil comes out bubble-costless), so you can test the pump: run on 50:1 premix, disconnect the oil pump outlet hose and the pump control arm. Hold the pump control arm in full-throttle position, run the outlet hose to a 50ml measuring cylinder. Run engine at 700rpm for fifteen mins and mensurate the output - in my example 28.6 ml +-2.6ml at 70f outside temp (await less oil if libation). Exam the warning buzzer on the oil tank float switch whilst y'all are at it. I worry more than nearly the hoses carrying the oil splitting/coming loose rather than the pump failing. Your oil level in the tank would exist going down as normal..... __________________

thirty September 2013, twenty:00	#eleven
Member Country: U.k. - England Town: Looe Make: Delta Length: 4m + Engine: Mercury Bring together Date: Apr 2004 Posts: 1,402	Quote: Originally Posted by clydeoutboards Howdy Pre mixing is far safer. The commercial angling guys dearest to tell stories well-nigh the poor sod who'south automobile mixer failed and killed the engine and to exist fair it is a single betoken of failure that you can go rid off 5 hands. Just if its an Opti don't pre mix it!! you will kill the air compressor!

30 September 2013, 20:57	#12
Member Country: Great britain - Wales Town: West Wales Brand: Vipermax 5.viii, SR4.seven Length: 5m + Engine: 150 Opti, F50EFi Join Date: Sep 2005 Posts: 6,299	I use a graduated syringe barrel in place of the oil reservoir and run the motor on pre-mix to measure consumption. Gives an authentic measurement and the oil pump is running under normal load ie pumping the oil into the fuel line or crankcase, rather than into an empty pot. __________________

01 October 2013, 11:31	#13
Member Country: United kingdom - Scotland Boat name: Wildheart Brand: Humber/Delta Seasafe Length: 5m + Engine: Merc 60 Clamshell MMSI: 235068449 Join Engagement: April 2007 Posts: iv,660	Quote: Originally Posted past Jwmarineuk Apart from noticing the level decrease in the tank is there any other way I tin know the oil an fuel is mixing properly? The engine will stop suddenly accompanied past a horrible grinding noise! Joking aside, 2 thoughts hither: (as someone who premixes) 1) Premix is messy. If yous get fifty-fifty a pocket-size spill your deck WILL get a skating rink, and unless you know exactly how much premix has been used, or accept a totally dry tank you lot tin never properly guestimate where the level really is, so will inevitably run over oiled. (which some may argue is no bad matter, but having bought a used engine from someone who thought along those lines & threw in an extra 100ml each time "to be on the safe side", trust me, as well much can be a bad thing...... 2) My one-time Suz DT25 had an oil flow switch fitted right by the injection point. Information technology was a wee force per unit area activated thing held open by the oil menstruum. That sat in-line on the oil piping and on "no period" closed contacts. It was (I believe) wired in parallel to the deadman, as Ipulled the plug & shorted the terminals & the engine stopped dead. Assuming you lot accept a pump -hose blazon system, I gauge you could retro fit i of these off asn old Suzi and parallel it to your stop circuit. IF your Merc is old plenty, at that place may be a "no run when tilted" mercurey switch - that would be a simple replacement of the mercury (level) switch with the wire from the oil flow sensor. In some respects (usually wehen filling the tank or doing a lot of slow speed work) I do miss automobile mixing...... __________________

01 October 2013, 21:04	#14
Member State: Other Town: Lima-Peru Boat name: Nautile Brand: Sea Rider 450 Rib Length: 4m + Engine: Tohatsu five/18/30 HP Bring together Date: Sep 2007 Posts: 1,998	The only thing that I find positive about having a autolube system is that precisely delivers less oil when at idle and more when at wot, down issue is that if pump fails engine volition severely overheat and seize. Donw issue running on pre-mix is that standard 50:ane ratio is splendid for wot boating and much worse for idle boating equally tends to foul plugs more, boater will need to alive with this terminal one or modify plugs more than frequently.- Happy Boating __________________

02 October 2013, 15:43	#15
Member State: UK - England Town: Plymouth Brand: Humber Length: 4m + Engine: 2007 Merc 75hp 2S Join Appointment: Sep 2013 Posts: 89	Hi and thankyou for your replies! My engine is carbed and not opti. Take serviced it this calendar week then hopefully no issues with oil mixing! Taking it on the H2o tomorrow so will run further tests then! Thanks. __________________ __________________

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